Computer Does Not Start and Emits a Beep Code

What to do when beep codes occur?

A beep code usually means a basic function was unable to start. A basic function might be reading memory, displaying video, or being able to send information to a hard drive. The most common problems that cause beep codes are memory and heat-related failures caused by a build-up of dust in critical cooling areas.
Use the beep code tables in this document to help find what hardware component is causing the issue. This might reduce the time required to find the hardware component that needs adjusted, reseated, or replaced.
Step 1: Remove dust from cooling areas
Step 1: Remove dust from cooling areas
If your computer is new and has never been used before, you can skip this step.
Over time, dust can collect in the cooling vents of your computer. Too much dust can block airflow, causing sensitive components to overheat and fail. Before troubleshooting for startup codes, it is important to remove any dust that may have accumulated.
While wearing eye protection, use canned air or the end of a vacuum cleaner to remove dust from vents, preferrably outdoors.

If your computer does not start, first reset all power to device. Hopefully, the problem is temporary and can be fixed by performing the following steps:

    Disconnect all peripheral devices such as printers, USB storage devices and media cards.
    Disconnect the power cord from the computer.
    Press and hold the power button for at least 15 seconds until the power LED on the power supply is off.
    Reconnect the power cord, and press the Power button .
    Listen for sounds of drives and fans turning.
    If the computer still fails to start and emits beeping sounds, continue to the next section.

Step 3: Write down the LED or beep code
 

Use the following steps to write down the error conditions onto a piece of paper.

 -Press the power button to turn on the computer.
 -Listen to your computer for any loud beeping noises. If your computer makes a beeping noise, note the type and number of beeps between pauses. For example: two long beeps followed by one short beep.
 -On a piece of paper, write down what you have noted to remember the error when doing the next steps.

Step 4: Match the code to a suspected hardware component

 
Consult the Beep code descriptions section in this support document to try and find the component that is having a problem. You can use this information in the next step when performing the troubleshooting. Or, in the event your computer requires service, you can use this code and information when talking with the service personell.

Step 5: Isolate and fix the problem

 

-Turn on the computer.
-Check the system fan and power cable:
-Turn off the computer by holding the power button for five seconds.

- Disconnect the power cord and then disconnect all external cords from the computer.

-Remove the side panel to open the computer.

-If the system fan was not spinning, make sure the system fan power cable is connected to the correct pins on the motherboard. Replace the fan if it was making excessive noise or was not spinning.-

If you had to plug in or replace the fan, replace the side panel, plug in the power cord and turn on the computer. If the beeps continue, continue to the next step.

Disconnect the power cord and remove the side panel and perform each of the following tasks, in order, until the beeping stops:
Before starting each task, unplug the power cord and remove the side panel.
After completing a task, replace the side panel, connect the power cord, turn on the computer, and listen for a beep code.
   - Clean internal cooling components that have become clogged with dust. If beeping continues, continue to the next step.
   - Remove a memory module.
   - If the computer stops beeping, the memory module might be bad, is the wrong type of memory for the motherboard, or was not fully seated or connected. Reinsert the memory into the socket to see if a connection was the problem; otherwise replace the module.
    Remove each memory module, replacing the one that was previously removed. If beeping continues after checking all the memory modules, continue to the next step.
    If the computer has a graphics adapter, remove it.
    If the beep code changes or continues with the same beep pattern after removing the graphics adapter, the adapter might still be good. Reseat the graphics adapter into its socket and continue to the next step.
    -If the beep code goes away, the graphics adapter might be bad. Try reseating the graphics adapter, making sure it is fully locked into the connector on the motherboard. If problems continue, replace the adapter.
    -Remove a PCI card.
    -If the beep code goes away, the card might be bad. Try reseating the card into its connector on the motherboard. If problems continue, replace the card.
    -Remove each PCI card, replacing the one that was previously removed. After checking all cards, if beeping continues, continue to the next step.
   - Disconnect each hard drive and CD or DVD drive cable (IDE and ATA) from the motherboard socket. Disconnect each drive cable, replacing the one that was previously disconnected, until all cables have been checked.
    -If the beep code goes away, the cable or socket is probably bad. Look for bent pins inside the IDE socket on the motherboard and straighten any bent pins. Try reseating the cables into the connectors. If problems continue, the drive itself might be bad and might need replacing.
   - After checking all connections, if beeping continues, continue to the next step.
    -At this point, the problem is probably the motherboard or processor. Make sure any jumpers on the motherboard have not fallen off their pins and into the case. Make sure jumpers are set correctly. Otherwise, have the computer serviced by HP or by a qualified service center.

How to repair computer errors

When you have a computer error it can be very frustrating, especially if the error prevents software from running or your computer even starting. If you add the internet to the mix, your computer will get viruses, spyware, adware and other malicious software that will cause errors on your machine.Spyware is perhaps one of the most dangerous types of PC infections to date. If a computer gets infected with spyware, a person could keep track of your every keystroke, email, website visit and other confidential conversations you might partake in. So if you do things like online banking, a person could use the spyware to find out all of your information and do what illegal acts they want to with it.
The next internet threat is adware and isn’t as dangerous as spyware, but can be very annoying. I despise any company or individual who develops adware because it is intrusive and no better then spam. Adware is advertisement software that usually attaches to free software that most people download. And even if you are connected to the internet or not adware can show advertisements. It will also do this even if the original download is not running. Adware ads come in many different forms, like pop-ups, URL redirection and many other things that anyone would find annoying.
Most people use Windows, if you don’t then you can skip this part. If you do, then you should know that Windows uses registry files and these registry files could be causing errors for you. When registry files have invalid entries this can cause error messages and crashes. Also if you remove orphaned references in your registry you can increase your PC’s performance and stability.
Viruses are the main reason people have computer errors, especially if you are connected to the internet. If the computer does not have any internet connection, then a virus could have only gotten on their by someone inserting data that has been infected by a malicious virus.
A Trojan virus is the most common type of virus and you should know how it works to avoid it. A Trojan virus hides in a program that appears as something you may think is safe, but hidden inside is usually something harmful, like a virus. Trojans are so common because you may download a game or even a picture thinking it is harmless, but once you run the file, the virus gets let loose.
If this is the first time you have ever tried to remove these errors from your computer, then you can expect to find a lot. That is why I recommend you get a good computer error removal program and use it at least once a month.
With this knowledge of all the different types of computer errors, you should be able properly diagnose what is causing the errors on your computer and fix it. Do not be discouraged if all errors aren’t fixed right away, as it could be all of the above. If you do have every type of error, then you would have to take removal steps for each type of error.

Installing MATLAB: processor is missing the SSE2 instructions

.

 Enter the chroot environment:
Code:

dchroot -d


2. Several key packages may be missing which require installation:
Code:

sudo apt-get install libxp6 libxt6 libxtst6


3. Now insert the matlab cdrom, remount it and run the install:
Code:

sudo umount /media/cdrom sudo mount -t iso9660 /dev/cdrom /media/cdrom
sudo mkdir /opt/matlab7 cd /opt/matlab7 sudo sh
/media/cdrom/install_unix.sh -glnx86


4. The new chroot32 environment for some reason still considers itself
to be of ia64 architecture. So the matlab install script merrily churns
away, installs all the binaries to .../glnx86 directories and makes its
own scripts point to .../glnxa64 directories which don't exist. Very
annoying, so we simply symlink wherever necessary:
Code:

cd /opt/matlab7/bin sudo mv glnxa64 glnxa64.old sudo ln -s glnx86
glnxa64 cd /opt/matlab7/extern/lib sudo ln -s glnx86 glnxa64 cd
/opt/matlab7/sys/java/jre sudo ln -s glnx86 glnxa64 cd
/opt/matlab7/sys/java/jre/glnx86/jre1.4.2/lib sudo ln -s i386 amd64


5. The last step is because matlab can't access a terminal window. I'm
not sure how this works, but the /chroot/dev/pts directory is not
properly mounted. You need to remount this. So in a new terminal window
(not chroot) go:
Code:

sudo umount /chroot/dev sudo mount --rbind /dev /chroot/dev


6. Now finally to remove the oscheck error message, open up the
oscheck.sh file:
Code:

sudo gedit /chroot/opt/matlab7/bin/util/oscheck.sh

Goto line 150, comment it out and insert a version number so looks like
follows:
Code:

# ver=`/lib/libc.so.6 | head -n 1 | sed -e "s/^[^0-9]*//" -e "s/[
,].*$//"` ver=`objdump -x /lib/libc.so.6|egrep " GLIBC_"|tail -1|awk
-F_ '{print $2}'`


7. Now you can type "matlab" and it should work without any errors or
fuss.

How to fix Windows BSOD error 0x0000024

0x0000024 error means that your NTFS system is broken. Maybe it is because of corrupted HDD, or corrupted partition, SCSI or IDE drivers.

What you can do:

1. If you can start the Windows, shut down all anti-viruses, defragmeting tools, HDD tools, in general: all tools that can change your data on HDD.

2. Run chkdsk/r. Type it in CMD, this program will check your hard disc for any errors and automatically repair 0x0000024 error.

3. Download NTFS4DOS. You will ned to use floppy disc to use this program. Then with ready floppy disc, boot from it and choose option 3.

There is a possibility, that partition on your HDD is corrupted and you will lost all data. If these methods didn't help you you need to make repartition. You can simply perform clean install of Windows and you will get new partition and no 0x0000024 error.

How To Fix Xlive.dll Not Found or Missing Errors

Xlive.dll error messages might appear while using or installing certain programs, when Windows starts or shuts down, or maybe even during a Windows installation.

The context of the xlive.dll error is an important piece of information that will be helpful while solving the problem.
Cause of Xlive.dll Errors

Xlive.dll errors are caused by situations that lead to the removal or corruption of the xlive DLL file.

In some cases, xlive.dll errors could indicate a registry problem, a virus or malware issue or even a hardware failure.

How To Fix Xlive.dll Errors
Important: Do not download xlive.dll from a "DLL download" website. There are many reasons why downloading a DLL file is a bad idea. If you need a copy of xlive.dll, it's best to obtain it from its original, legitimate source.

Note: Start Windows in Safe Mode to complete any of the following steps if you're unable to access Windows normally due to the xlive.dll error.

    Download Games for Windows Live. The xlive.dll file is included in this download from Microsoft and installing it will likely replace the xlive.dll file, fixing this problem.

    Restore xlive.dll from the Recycle Bin. The easiest possible cause of a "missing" xlive.dll file is that you've mistakenly deleted it.

    If you suspect that you've accidentally deleted xlive.dll but you've already emptied the Recycle Bin, you may be able to recover xlive.dll with a free file recovery program.

    Important: Recovering a deleted copy of xlive.dll with a file recovery program is a smart idea only if you're confident you've deleted the file yourself and that it was working properly before you did that.

    Run a virus/malware scan of your entire system. Some xlive.dll errors could be related to a virus or other malware infection on your computer that has damaged the DLL file. It's even possible that the xlive.dll error you're seeing is related to a hostile program that's masquerading as the file.

    Use System Restore to undo recent system changes. If you suspect that the xlive.dll error was caused by a change made to an important file or configuration, a System Restore could solve the problem.

    Reinstall the program that uses the xlive.dll file. If the xlive.dll DLL error occurs when you use a particular program, reinstalling the program should replace the file.

    Important: Try your best to complete this step. Reinstalling the program that provides the xlive.dll file, if possible, is a likely solution to this DLL error.

    Update the drivers for hardware devices that might be related to xlive.dll. If, for example, you're receiving a "The file xlive.dll is missing" error when you play a 3D video game, try updating the drivers for your video card.

    Note: The xlive.dll file may or may not be related to video cards - this was just an example. The key here is to pay very close attention to the context of the error and troubleshoot accordingly.

    Roll back a driver to a previously installed version if xlive.dll errors began after updating a particular hardware device's driver.

    Run the sfc /scannow System File Checker command to replace a missing or corrupt copy of the xlive.dll file. If this DLL file is provided my Microsoft, the System File Checker tool should restore it.

    Install any available Windows updates. Many service packs and other patches replace or update some of the hundreds of Microsoft distributed DLL files on your computer. The xlive.dll file could be included in one of those updates.

    Test your memory and then test your hard drive. I've left the majority of hardware troubleshooting to the last step, but your computer's memory and hard drive are easy to test and are the most likely components that might cause xlive.dll errors as they fail.

    If the hardware fails any of your tests, replace the memory or replace the hard drive as soon as possible.

    Repair your installation of Windows. If the individual xlive.dll file troubleshooting advice above is unsuccessful, performing a startup repair or repair installation should restore all Windows DLL files to their working versions.

    Use a free registry cleaner to repair xlive.dll related issues in the registry. A free registry cleaner program may be able to help by removing invalid xlive.dll registry entries that might be causing the DLL error.

    Important: I rarely recommend the use of registry cleaners. I've included the option here as a "last resort" attempt before the destructive step coming up next.

    Perform a clean installation of Windows. A clean install of Windows will erase everything from the hard drive and install a fresh copy of Windows. If none of the steps above correct the xlive.dll error, this should be your next course of action.

    Important: All the information on your hard drive will be erased during a clean install. Make sure you've made the best attempt possible to fix the xlive.dll error using a troubleshooting step prior to this one.

    Troubleshoot for a hardware problem if any xlive.dll errors persist. After a clean install of Windows, your DLL problem can only be hardware related.

Applies To

The xlive.dll error message could apply to any program or system that might utilize the file on any of Microsoft's operating systems including Windows 7, Windows Vista, Windows XP, and Windows 2000.
Still Having Xlive.dll Issues?

Let a community of computer support enthusiasts help out! Post the details of your xlive.dll issue in the PC Support Forum. Be sure to let us know the exact xlive.dll error message that you're seeing and what steps, if any, you've already taken to fix the problem.

Windows Cannot Find Autorun Exe

It isn't unusual that when pc users get Windows autorun exe errors have no understanding of how to fix these types of problems. The good news is that the large part of them are simple to locate and fix, even if, like most people, you are not a computer expert. In the paragraphs that follow, I'll let you in on how you can have the ability to quickly rid your computer of these irritating pc errors

I assume that since you've been using your computer, you must have already experienced various conflicts linked to the windows system. Regrettably, the majority of users don't realize the truth that in most cases one particular cause is responsible for all these problems - the windows registry. Without that key information, a lot of pc users dip into their wallets and spend too much time on unneeded and often ineffective solutions.

One thing that is required of you right away when your computer encounters Windows autorun exe errors is to investigate whether or not the registry is corrupted. This segment of your system has to monitor all your actions with respect to sw and hw installations, removals, and updates management. It catalogues, to name one function, the exact position of all exe files on your hard disk. The consequence of a damaged registry can be to name one potential problem, the inability of your windows program to locate the path of a specific executable and consequently you end up with annoying pop-up errors.

With your new understanding of what it means to get Windows autorun exe errors take the opportunity to get started on a "cure" before it bothers you again. Playing around with your windows registry independently is probably a too sophisticated process, but you can choose one of the following: either hire a technician (expensive) or installing a registry fix software. A well designed registry cleaning and repairing software from a maker you can trust will efficiently and simply repair your windows registry. I strongly encourage you to download and install one of these great tools and start scanning for free; there are very high chances that you can finally free your windows of this and other irritating and time-wasting issues in just a few minutes from now..

How To Troubleshoot a Computer That Turns On But Stops Booting During the POST

Troubleshoot the cause of the BIOS error message you see on the monitor. These errors during the POST are usually very specific so if you've been fortunate enough to receive one, your best course of action is to troubleshoot to the specific error you see.

If you don't fix the problem by working through the specific error during the POST, you can always return here and continue with the troubleshooting below.

Clear the CMOS. Clearing the BIOS memory on your motherboard will reset the BIOS settings to their factory default levels. A misconfigured BIOS is a common cause of a computer locking up during the POST.

Important: If clearing the CMOS does fix your problem, make any future settings changes in BIOS one at a time so if the problem returns, you'll know which change caused your issue.

Test your power supply. Just because your computer initially turns on does not mean that the power supply is working. The power supply is the cause of startup problems more than any other piece of hardware in a computer. It very well could be the cause of your problems during the POST.

Replace your power supply immediately if your tests show a problem with it.

Important: Do not skip a test of your PSU thinking that your problem can't be with the power supply because your computer is receiving power. Power supplies can, and often do, partially work and one that isn't fully functional must be replaced.

Reseat everything inside your computer case. Reseating will reestablish the the cable, card, and other connections inside your computer.

Try reseating the following and then see if your computer boots past the POST:

Note: Unplug and reattach your keyboard and mouse as well. There's little chance that the keyboard or mouse is causing your computer to freeze during the POST but just to be thorough, we should reconnect them while we're reseating other hardware.

Reseat the CPU only if you think that it may have come loose or might not have been properly installed.

Note: I separated out this task only because the chance of a CPU coming loose is slim and because reseating one could actually create a problem if you're not careful. There's no reason to worry as long as you appreciate how sensitive a CPU and its socket/slot on the motherboard is.

Triple check every hardware configuration if you're troubleshooting this problem after a new computer build or after installation of new hardware. Check every jumper and DIP switch, verify that the CPU, memory, and video card you're using is compatible with your motherboard, etc. Rebuild your PC from scratch if necessary.

Important: Do not assume that your motherboard supports certain hardware. Check your motherboard's manual to verify that the hardware you've purchased will work properly.

Note: If you haven't built your own PC or haven't made hardware changes then you can skip this step entirely.

Check for causes of electrical shorts inside your computer. This could be the cause of the problem if your computer freezes during the POST, especially if it does so without a BIOS error message.

Start your PC with essential hardware only. The purpose here is to remove as much hardware as possible while still maintaining your computer's ability to power on.

    If your computer starts normally with only essential hardware installed, proceed to Step 9.
    If your computer still isn't displaying anything on your monitor, proceed to Step 10.

Important: Starting your PC with its minimum necessary hardware is very easy to do, takes no special tools, and could provide you with valuable information. This isn't a step to skip if, after all the steps above, your computer is still freezing during the POST.

Reinstall each piece of hardware that you removed in Step 8, one piece at a time, testing your PC after each installation.

Since your computer powered on with only the essential hardware installed, those parts must working properly. This means that one of the hardware components you removed is causing your computer to not turn on properly. By installing each device back into your computer and testing each time, you'll eventually find the hardware that caused your problem.

Replace the nonfunctioning hardware once you've identified it. See these Hardware Installation Videos for help reinstalling your hardware.

Test your computer's hardware using a Power On Self Test card. If your computer is still freezing during the POST with nothing but essential computer hardware installed, a POST card will help identify which piece of remaining hardware is causing your computer to stop booting.

If you don't already own or are unwilling to buy a POST card, skip to Step 11.

Replace each piece of essential hardware in your PC with an identical or equivalent spare piece of hardware (that you know is working), one component at a time, to determine which piece is causing your computer to stop during the POST. Test after each hardware replacement to determine which component is faulty.

Note: The average computer owner doesn't have a set of working spare computer parts at home or work. If you don't either, my advice is to revisit Step 10. A POST card is very inexpensive and is, in general and in my opinion, a smarter approach than stocking spare computer parts.

Finally, if all else fails, you'll probably need to find professional help from a computer repair service or from your computer manufacturer's technical support.

If you don't have a POST card or spare parts to swap in and out, you're left not knowing which piece of your essential computer hardware is not working. In these cases, you'll have to rely on the help of individuals or companies that do have these tools and resources.

Rundll.exe Maxing Out Your CPU

Rundll.exe is an application that runs as part of your Windows operating system. Its main and only task is to access DLL files and run code. This is because DLL files cannot run code by themselves

Rundll.exe is an application that runs as part of your Windows operating system. Its main and only task is to access DLL files and run code. This is because DLL files cannot run code by themselves.
Rundll.exe is an integral part of Window, and can be found in C:\Windows\System32. Your computer cannot run properly without it, and should not be deleted or moved from this location. If you run Task Manager, you may see more than one copy of Rundll32.exe in operation. In normal circumstances this is normal behavior, but if the processes are taking up and excessive amount of RAM and CPU power, then Rundll.exe should be investigated for potential virus activity.

Common Problems with Rundll.exe

You will not normally see any error messages regarding Rundll.exe, unless of course it's missing. If that's the case then your computer will not operate correctly, and you will need to run your Windows repair disk, or a Windows stability program in order to restore your system.

The most common problems with Rundll.exe are infections from:

Viruses
Malwares
Other Malicious Programs
Because Rundll.exe is an executable file that is commonly used by Windows, it makes a great target for viruses and malware to infect, because it will appear to be a legitimate program. You may only notice a problem if your system starts behaving erratically. One of the easiest ways to find out if you have a Rundll.exe infection is to look at your CPU usage from the "Task Manager". If Rundll.exe is not infected it will take up hardly any processor power. Between 1% and 5% is normal. If however you're seeing your CPU using between 95% and 100% with the Rundll.exe process, then it's likely you have a problem.

You should also look at your Rundll.exe process to see where it's running from. Sometimes viruses put a fake Rundll.exe file somewhere on your computer. The only legitimate Rundll.exe file running should be in your windows\system32 folder.

Solutions - How to Solve Rundll.exe Issues

If you're convinced you have a Rundll.exe infection on your computer, you should try one of the following solutions:

Run Anti-Virus and Anti-Malware software.
Running programs to remove malicious software is the most effective way of dealing with this type of problem. After doing so, you may want to run a Reimage scan to re-stabalise your operating system.
Run a System Restore.
You can restore your system back to a previous restore point using Windows System Restore. Make sure you choose a date that is well before when you believe the problem started.
Do a Windows Repair from your Windows disk.
In order to do this you will need to restart your computer with your Windows disk inserted. Follow the instruction to repair your operating system. If your Rundll.exe file is damaged or corrupt then it will be replaced with a new one. Afterdoing this, it's still recommended to run Anti-virus and Anti-Malware software.



Computer CPU(intel pentium D 925 processor ) error

emachines computers are well known to have el-cheapo power supplies that tend to malfunction more often than average, and when the power supply fails completely, they are a lot more likely than average to damage something else, often the mboard.
Unplug the cord to the computer, or otherwise switch off the AC power to it, open up the computer case, and find the label on the power supply - if the brand is BESTEC I advise you, if you find ANY indication the power supply might be in the process of failing, DO NOT trying booting the computer anymore - if the PS fails completely there is a strong likelyhood it will trash your mboard!!!!

Failing power supplies are common and can cause your symptoms.
.

" have run Memory test and memtest, the bootable memtest came up with no errors in ram."

I that case, there's probably nothing wrong with the ram.

" the memory test that runs in windows came up with many errors, i have scanned all sticks of ram sepertately and still found errors in every stick."

Your problems may be because of a poor connection of your hard drive, or the hard drive is starting to fail.

It is common to un-intentionally damage IDE data cables, especially while removing them - the 80 wire ones are more likely to be damaged. What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector or under it's cable clamp there, where it's hard to see - if a wire is severed but it's ends are touching, the connection is intermittant, rather than being reliable.
Another common thing is for the data cable to be separated from the connector contacts a bit after you have removed a cable - there should be no gap between the data cable and the connector - if there is press the cable against the connector to eliminate the gap.
80 wire data cables are also easily damaged at either edge if the cable is sharply creased at a fold in the cable.

Try another data cable if in doubt.

Check your SATA data cables. The connector on each end should "latch" into the socket on the drive and on the mboard, or on the drive controller card - it should not move when you merely brush your hand against it near the socket - if it does, mere vibration can cause a poor connection of it - use another SATA data cable that does "latch", or tape the connector in place.
(There is a slight projection or bump on one side of the outside of the connector that "latches" it into the socket - it's easily broken off or damaged)

The same thing applies for the SATA power connection.

 If the hard drive is starting to fail you could certainly have errors in Windows that you don't have when you boot from a floppy.

Check your hard drive with the manufacturer's diagnostics.

If you don't have a floppy drive, you can get a CD image diagnostic utility from most hard drive manufacturer's web sites, but obviously you would need to make a burned CD, preferably a CD-R for best compatibilty, on another computer if you need to.

If the hard drive itself tests okay, any data problems found can be fixed, one way or another.
.........

"I also read online that memory errors can appear but they are actually motherboard errors."

That's extremely rare, and if that were the case, it's very likely the ram would fail the memory test booted from a floppy as well as in Windows.
.....

Contrary to popular belief, it is extremely rare for ram to go BAD when it was working fine previously.
The ram you had in it in the first place is probably fine.
However....
A common thing that can happen with ram, even ram that worked fine previously, is the ram has, or has developed, a poor connection in it's slot(s).
try cleaning the contacts on the ram modules, and making sure the modules are properly seated:
..

Apparently the chipset on this mboard does not support using DDR2 800mhz (PC6400) ram.
The DDR2 800mhz spec itself is backward compatible, but that's not the only thing that determines whether the ram is compatible, and the problem is very few places list DDR2 800mhz ram for this mboard.




Building Your Own PC

Opening The Empty Case

       

 

Empty case with motherboard tray withdrawn.

Our tower case is built to ATX specification and includes a 300-watt power supply. Two side panels can be individually removed after undoing the screws. Some other cases have a one-piece outer cover in the shape of an upside down 'U.' No matter how the case is constructed, you can normally gain access to the interior of the PC-to-be from both sides.

The price of a case is a good indicator of its modularity and build quality. Cheaper cases often force you to assemble the PC in a specific order, are made of softer and/ or thinner metal, and may contain sharp edges. Expensive cases provide clever design features, a more solid construction, better finish, and are often fitted with more capable power supplies.

When you have opened the case by removing the side panels, you will see what accessories the case manufacture has supplied. A power cord and screws should always be included, and you will also often find a set of case feet.

Preparing To Fit The Components

 

Overview of all components (from left to right and top to bottom): network adapter card; floppy disk drive; CD-ROM drive; sound card; hard disk; ribbon cable; graphics card; RAM; CPU cooler; and, motherboard.

Let's take another look at the photo. The inclusion of a component from a particular manufacturer does not imply a recommendation on our part. We use them to illustrate the installation procedure of similar components. The choice of components is entirely up to you. You can always find reviews of the latest products on the Tom's Hardware site, together with articles on the latest developments and product recommendations.

Fitting The Motherboard

Empty tray with six motherboard spacers.

Our case has a slide-out tray, which provides a very elegant way to install the motherboard and all of its components. Cheaper cases will have a mounting plate fixed permanently to the case. If you have this type, you should first lay the case on its side.Next, screw in the spacer mounts for fixing the motherboard. The photo shows six spacers already fitted to the mounting plate. There are usually more holes drilled in the mounting plate than you actually need. There are standard locations for these holes on the mounting plate, which correspond to the holes on the motherboard. How many of these are actually used depends on the board manufacturer. Cases are normally designed to accept any motherboard. Compare the available holes with the ones on your motherboard to determine where to fit the threaded spacers.

Spaced well away from the metal - the motherboard on the mounting plate.

Installing The CPU And Coole

r       

 

Lift the lever on the CPU socket

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When the processor is in its socket, push the lever back down.

First, insert the CPU in its socket. To do this, raise the small lever at the side of the socket. If you examine the CPU from underneath, you will notice that there is a pin missing at one corner. Match this corner with the corner on the socket where there is a hole missing. The processor is keyed in this way to make sure it is inserted correctly. Please bear in mind that you should not force the CPU when inserting it! All pins should slide smoothly into the socket. If you are sure that you have positioned the CPU correctly (using the missing pin as reference), yet are unable to insert the CPU, it is likely that one of its pins is bent. If this has happened, straighten the pin using tweezers or a screwdriver. Once you have installed the processor, lock the lever back down.

Don't Forget To Use Thermal Paste Or A Thermal Pad       

Applying thermal paste to the processor.

You must apply thermal paste or a thermal pad to the top of the CPU. This will help to transfer heat from the processor to the cooler. Failure to apply a thermally conductive medium to the processor can cause it to fail! Unless you use thermal paste, any slight misalignment of the contact surface of the cooler, or even the presence of tiny specks of dust, will prevent heat from being efficiently transferred away from the processor. Thermal paste also fills the microscopic valleys in the contact surface of the CPU (known as the die). Some cooler manufacturers supply thermal paste with their products. If yours did not, it is available from most good computer or electronics stores and costs around two to three dollars.

Mounting The Cooler

A cooler made of copper is recommended, since this material is a very efficient heat conductor. You should know your processor's socket type when buying a cooler. You have a choice of two types of cooler - one suitable for both Socket A/462 and Socket 370, or one just for Socket 423 (Pentium 4).

 

Make sure that the cooler is in the correct position. Here is the cooler about to be connected with the socket

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Clips fix the cooler to the socket. This applies to Socket A/462 (AMD) and Socket 370 (Pentium III and C3).

Fan Power Connection

 

Plenty of air flow. Here is the power connection for the cooler's fan.

You may have wondered why the connector lead for the fan has three wires. Two of these carry the power; the third is used for monitoring the speed of the fan. Therefore, the BIOS is always aware of the speed at which the fan is running.

 

Installing The RAM

       

The RAM must be suitable for the motherboard. There are currently three types of RAM available: SDRAM, DDR SDRAM and RDRAM. The motherboard's chipset determines which type of RAM may be used. You will find the specification on the motherboard's box or in the motherboard manual.

 

 

Installing RAM. A notch at the bottom of the memory module ensures that the RAM is fitted correctly. The notch is located in different places on SDRAM, DDR SDRAM and RDRAM.

DIMM memory modules have a notch underneath that lines up with a key on the memory slots. Although it is not possible to insert the modules the wrong way, you should line up the RAM with its slot before installing it. Then, carefully press the module into the slot. Caution is recommended, as too much pressure may damage certain tracks on the motherboard. It is best to push one side down first, and then the other. The notch will snap into its key as soon as one side is seated correctly. To make sure it is seated correctly, you can always take the memory module out again. Releasing the clips will pop the module out of its socket. Then, you can just lift it out.

 

Passed the first hurdle. Motherboard with processor, cooler and memory.

Socket 370 (Intel Pentium III or Via C3), Socket A/462, and However, Socket 478-based Pentium 4 systems are slightly different. Intel specifies that motherboard manufacturers should provide a plastic guide rail to ensure that the cooler is always mounted flat to the surface of the processor. Also, the cooler is not locked down with clips but with a snap-in system, as shown in the following pictures.

Pentium 4 motherboards have a socket with 478 pins and a guide for the CPU cooler.

Graphics, Sound And Network       

In place - sound card (left) and graphics card (center) in white PCI slots. There is room for a network card, if required.

Nowadays, graphics cards are usually fitted in the AGP slots provided specifically for this purpose. These are brown in color, in contrast to the PCI slots, and are generally located in the center of the motherboard. PCI graphics cards are rarely used. Now, select a PCI slot for each of your other plug-in cards, including the sound card. Before fitting an expansion card, remove the appropriate slot insert from the back panel of the case (or of the motherboard tray). As a rule, you need to undo a screw to do this, although sometimes convenient plastic clips are used. The insert may also form part of the back panel.

Choosing a location for a PCI card will not usually be a problem on a simple system. In our experience, however, selecting an appropriate PCI slot can sometimes be problematic with some brands of motherboard. For example, IRQs can be reserved twice or even three times over. Resource conflicts can make it difficult for the operating system and motherboard to work together properly. This can often be solved by moving the offending PCI card to another slot or by manually reassigning IRQs. The other reason is more practical. If you see a large heat sink on a plug-in card, perhaps even with a fan on top, the chip underneath will be producing a lot of heat that has to be removed. There is only one reason we did not fit the sound card next to the graphics card: we wanted to keep some space between the cards in order to prevent heat buildup.

Installing The Hard Disk And Floppy     

We assume that you have already configured your hard disk the way you want it - single, master, or slave. The photo below shows the hard disk already fitted. As you can see, we can look right through the case here. If we had slid the motherboard tray back into position, it would have been impossible to screw the hard disk in from the left.

At the moment, we still have good access to the hard disk (bottom) and the floppy drive (top). You can see the screws for the drive on the side.

Use two screws per side on each drive. We would like to touch briefly on the topic of drive cooling, as it is quite important with the current 7,200 rpm drives. Hard disks running at 7,200 rpm can quickly reach temperatures in excess of 50°C. You should, therefore, always leave some space above them to prevent heat buildup. The power supply fan is normally powerful enough to provide adequate air circulation inside the case.

Installing The CD-ROM Drive       

Installing a CD-ROM drive is similar to installing a hard disk. First, check that the jumper configuration is correct.

 

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You only get to see the metal below the decorative plastic front panel when installing your system; the case metal is actually hidden by plastic panels. The entire front section, or at least the part where the drives will be installed, is manufactured from a single, large piece of metal, in which the drive holes are then punched. For some years now, the CE norm for cases has specified this kind of metal panel, as only metal can reduce electromagnetic emissions - the processor usually being the worst offender in this area.

In practice, there are two options. If the metal knockouts are pre-stamped, you have to either take them out using metal cutters, or knock them out using force. If you have a high quality computer case, you can remove and replace these metal panels whenever you like. Check carefully to see if there is an easy way to remove these panels that will reduce the chances of your accidentally damaging one or more of them.

When we have opened up the hole, we can feed the CD-ROM drive in and screw it into place. You will need the fine-threaded type screws. Always use four screws. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, as excess pressure can put a strain on the case that could lead to twisting. The faster a drive's rotational speed, the more serious the effect. Tighten the screws only enough to ensure that the drive is secure. Heat is a consideration with CD-ROM drives, as it is with disk drives.

Connecting The Ribbon Cables       

Your PC should now look similar to connect the cablethe one in our photograph. All key components, such as the motherboard, processor, RAM, graphics card, sound card, hard disk, CD-ROM and floppy, have been installeds.

PC still without the cables

As you will be aware after reading Part 1, there are two main cable types: the 34-pin cable for the floppy drive and the 40-pin IDE cable (with 80 wires) for the hard disk and CD-ROM. Cables are always color-coded to show pin 1. Most drives also provide some kind of identification for pin 1. If you find that this is not the case, just remember that pin 1 is the one next to the power plug.

Ribbon cable. The markings show the direction in which the power flows. Bottom: 80-pin for hard disk. Top: 34-pin for floppy.

Drive Power Connectors

Four-pole for 5 and 12 volts. Disk drive power connector on the right next to the ribbon cable.

Power supplies are fitted with at least five plugs for delivering power to the drives. If you need more than this, consider buying one or more splitter cables. A splitter cable provides two connectors from a single one. The corners of the plugs and sockets are keyed to ensure correct polarity.

Floppy drives have smaller plugs, which are easily recognized among the cables coming from the power supply. Finally, there is the large ATX plug that plugs into the power socket on the motherboard. ATX12 or P6 should be connected where required. The latter provides extra power for power-hungry processors,

Connecting The Ribbon Cables

Your PC should now look similar to the one in our photograph. All key components, such as the motherboard, processor, RAM, graphics card, sound card, hard disk, CD-ROM and floppy, have been installed. Now it is time to connect the cables.

 

PC still without the cables

As you will be aware after reading Part 1, there are two main cable types: the 34-pin cable for the floppy drive and the 40-pin IDE cable (with 80 wires) for the hard disk and CD-ROM. Cables are always color-coded to show pin 1. Most drives also provide some kind of identification for pin 1. If you find that this is not the case, just remember that pin 1 is the one next to the power plug.

Ribbon cable. The markings show the direction in which the power flows. Bottom: 80-pin for hard disk. Top: 34-pin for floppy.

Basic Computer Components

Computers come in all different shapes and forms (examples: desktops, laptops), but the main components that make up a computer pretty much stay the same. Components can also be refereed to as; hardware or parts. Throughout this website I will explain the various components in a PC computer, and try my best to give you the information you need to better understand how your computer works. Some of this information is considered basic computer knowledge, but there is no better place to start with than with the basics. Knowing this valuable information can help you if you are going to buy, repair, maintain or even build your own computer

Computer Case - Where all of the components are stored

CPU - It is basically the brain of your computer. The CPU is a used to process everything from basic to complex functions in a computer

 

 

RAM - RAM is memory that attaches to the motherboard. RAM is hardware used to temporarily store and access data

Motherboard - A Motherboard is the most important component in a computer system. All of the other hardware in a computer system connect to the motherboard

 

Power Supply - A Power Supply is the sends power to all of the other hardware so they can operate

Hard Drive - A Hard Drive is used for permanently storing files and programs

Disk Drives - Disk Drives can be a floppy drive, CD drive, DVD drive or other possible file storage devices that are used in a computer

 

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.Video Card - A Video Card is the part of a computer system that converts binary code from the CPU so you can view it on a monitor

Monitor - The part of a computer that allows you to see what the computer is processing

Keyboard - A keyboard allows a computer user to enter text commands into a computer system

Mouse - A mouse allows a computer user to use a point and click interface to enter commands